It’s an appealing sight as you approach 317 at Montgomery Street in downtown Syracuse, N.Y.

The phone rang with an invitation almost too good for a weeknight.

Could my dear wife Karen and I come out to play for dining week with her, David and Althea?

It is Syracuse Dining Week, a celebration of local restaurants that has grown to longer than two weeks this year.

The concept is gloriously simple. Participating restaurants open their doors and put out a special menu in addition to their regular fare. For a top price of $25, Dining Week patrons can get three courses. It’s a deal. In year No. 10, 25 restaurants are participating. They want to introduce people to their food and the city.

We picked a new restaurant, 317 at Montgomery Street. The name drew me in because I know that to be the address of the former Brick Alley…